WINEMAKING SUPPLIES, GRAPES and JUICE 
for amateur winemakers.  607-292-3995
Fall Bright, The Winemakers Shoppe 10110 Hyatt Hill Dundee, NY 14837
  607-292-3995 
Finger Lakes grown grapes, juices: Sept-Oct 

Basic Understanding of winemaking

Our vineyards (Pa'tridge Run Farms) overlook the Bluff from Hyatt Hill on the east side of Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes Region, NY.  An old grape-packing house provides a home for Fall Bright, the Winemakers Shoppe. 

Established in 1977, Pa'tridge Run Farms is a family owned vineyard dedicated to growing quality wine grapes and providing quality juices for the amateur winemaker.   It was partnered with a modern juice plant and supply shop, Fall Bright, The Winemakers Shoppe in 1978.  After a couple of years in business, our winemakers were requesting more Vinifera and French Hybrid varieties than we grew.  So in 1982 we, Tom and Marcy Mitchell, along with Tom Jr., Megan and Corlin, began replanting our farm to grape varieties that were or would be in demand by amateur winemakers.  To date we grow over 20 acres of more than thirty premium grape varieties.  Attention to detail in the vineyard from pruning, to vine care, crop regulation and selection of optimum harvest times assures the quality our customers demand.
            We are located on Hyatt Hill, which is off Rt. 54 on the east side of Keuka Lake about 9 miles north of Hammondsport and 13 miles south of Penn Yan, NY near the town of Wayne.  We grow and provide 30 varieties of Finger Lakes grown grapes, pressed juices during September and October, plus wine and beer making supplies.  Grapes and juices are FOB at Fall Bright for pick-up.  Crushing and destemming for grape orders is included (on premises).  Shipping supplies, not fruit, to USA and Canada, we have year round hours and a secure online shopping site at http://www.fallbright.com

  So do you want to know HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN WINE?  Want to make fruit wines while waiting for our grapes to grow and ripen? 
            Now that it's almost summer and you're thinking about making wine, how about making wine from the many fruits available throughout the summer: strawberries, peaches.... Let us help you with your fruit wines!  Most winemaking books will include a chart with recommendations for various fruits.  These charts indicate how much sugar, acid, and yeast nutrient to add per pound of fruit. It is nice to have a guideline but please take them cautiously.  Approach fruit wine making with a basic understanding of the 2 most important factors in winemaking: sugar and acid content of the juice.
            For instance in grapes with the many different varieties (30) that we handle, we see readings in acid and sugars vary widely.  The same will be true of say - strawberries, depending on variety and ripeness.  A chart in Enjoy Home Winemaking by Frishman, recommends adding 4.5 cups of sugar and 1 teaspoon of acid blend to 3.5 pounds of strawberries and water to make 1 gallon.  Without knowing the percentage of sugar in the fresh fruit/water combination and the resulting acid, how can one rely on a “recipe” to add sugar and acid?  In general winemaking we adjust acids up or down according to an acid (test kit) reading to around .7or.75(%) TA (total acidity).  We adjust the sugar after taking a “reading” on a hydrometer to 21-24% or Brix, depending on the desired finish: dry, semi-dry, or sweet. 
             For best results, take an acid reading on your fruit and water mix with an Acid Test Kit and adjust accordingly, slowly and retest.  One of our favorite winemakers adds half of what acid he calculates he needs and retest.  We use the guideline that 1.9 gram of tartaric acid per gallon will raise the acid .05.  All the acids vary - though are so close that we use that figure for all.  Citric acid does not reverse if you add too much.  Once there is too much citric acid, it needs to be diluted to reduce.  Tartaric acid may be reduced somewhat by exposure to cold (25-30oF) temperatures.  This is called cold stabilization. 
            Sugar will also vary.  It's easy to test for sugar before fermenting with a hydrometer.  This is an inexpensive but necessary tool.  If you add too much sugar, the yeast will ferment until the wine is too high in alcohol and too toxic to support yeast life.  This wine is hot to taste and could still be too sweet.  Once you have your beginning sugar reading it is easy to calculate an increase.  To use your hydrometer, float it, weighted end down in a sample of juice in the clear plastic packing tube or in a hydrometer jar, and read it at the top of the juice level.  The numbers will indicate the sugar percentage or balling (brix) expressed as degrees, or the potential alcohol, or the specific gravity depending on which scale you have and/or read. 

            We use corn sugar as it is a simple sugar, readily available as a yeast nutrient and it dissolves instantly.  Sucrose, if used, may be heated in your juice to help it dissolve.  This combination of acid and heat convert it to simple sugars.  If using honey instead of sugar, boil and skim to remove impurities. 

Initially, the most meaningful parameter of grapes and grape juice to an aspiring winemaker is Brix or sugar percentage or degree.  It is the one factor that connotes maturity.  If the sugar is high, it must be ripe.  The higher the sugar the riper the fruit, the more sugar the better.  NOT NECESSARILY SO!  Many winemakers never go beyond this way of thinking. However, as the winemaker advances, he soon learns the importance of pH in addition to acidity and sugar.

pH is a dimension that expands the quality aspects of wine.  It ties in with acidity and places limitations on use of various additives that the winemaker commonly uses.  It is sometimes the reason a jug of wine goes down the drain, when everything was done correctly.  This is a simplified caution regarding just a few products.   

            Potassium Metabisulfite or Sodium Bisulfite:  With a higher pH more “meta” is required to reach a given sulfite level of 40 or 80 PPM (parts per million) than is recommended by label rates of 1/8 or ¼ teaspoon per 5 gallon.  The level  (PPM) required for wine stability will be higher at a higher pH than at a lower pH.  So the recommended rates of 40 PPM and 80 PPM are an over-simplification!

Bentonite:  Wines with a higher pH will required more Bentonite for good fining results.

            Calcium carbonate:  CaCO3    .3-.4 grams /liter will increase the pH by ~ 0.1   This shift must be taken into consideration and is the restriction in the use of CaCO3 and the other acid reduction aids noted below.  The pH shift will vary depending on the chemistry of the must. Must meaning the grape mess.

Acidex:   shifts the pH, also, as with calcium carbonate.  Keep tabs.

            Potassium Bicarbonate:  Because it neutralizes the acid, potassium bicarbonate raises the pH of the wine more than calcium carbonate.   This can be an advantage in dealing with problem varieties with a pH below 3.0 and a TA above 1.0.   Raising the pH of such wines will help soften their acid taste.   However, this can also be a major disadvantage or limitation in its use.  It is recommended only for use with wines with a pH below 3.0 and a TA. above 1.0 to insure that the final pH will not exceed 3.5.  Maximum reduction of TA is in the .25 to .3% range.

            A final pH of 3.4 to 3.45 may be more desirable.  A pH of 3.5 or 3.6 will generally not yield a long living wine.

pH is difficult to put into a nut shell.  It is so complicated.  However, the amateur winemaker needs to acknowledge its existence and the limitations that it places on winemaking and wine.

            Yeast selection and wine finish, dry, semi-dry or sweet are tied together.
We like Red Star’s Cotes des Blancs yeast, which was previously known as Epernay 2 for fruit wines or “fruity” grape wines.   Cotes des Blancs is slower fermenting, a weaker yeast and tends to get “stuck”, leaving a sweet wine.  For a sweet finish a nice starting brix or sugar is 23-24 percent (expressed as degrees).   Lalvin 71B-1122 may also be used for a sweet, fruity finish.  We think it may be a bit stronger than Cotes des Blanc and may ferment out a bit dryer, so you may want to reduce the sugar adjustment to 23 brix.
           If you don't want a sweet wine, adjust your sugar to around 21 or 22 percent and use Lalvin D-47 or 71B- 1112.   They have a less violent foaming fermentation and will help retain more of the fruitiness than Red Star Champagne or Montrachet yeast.   Lalvin EC 1118, KIV-1116 will ferment dry without excessive foaming. However, the fruit may not be as intense as with the other yeast (D-47, 71B-1122) mentioned.  Most of the older “recipes” for fruit wine call for Red Star Champagne yeast, as it was available.  Dare to change and use some of Lalvin yeast or Red Star Cotes Des Blanc. 

Once you have decided on the finish and have an idea of the starting sugar desired, calculate the sugar to add to your juice.  Use our sugar chart (on 101winemaking.com) to add the correct amount of sugar to adjust to 21-24 percent -- or calculate the amount needed by math.  Compute the increase in brix desired (i.e. 15 to 21=6).  Multiply the increase of brix desired (6) by the number of gallons to be adjusted (6x5 gallons=30degrees).  As 0.125 pounds of sugar raises 1 gallon 10 (one) brix or degree (or percent), multiply this (30) by .125 which will equal the pounds (3.75 #) of sugar to add to the entire batch of must or crushed fruit.    Three (3) cups of corn sugar is approximately 1 pound and 2 1/4 cups of cane sugar is about 1 pound.  Add the required sugar. 

            These simple (acid and sugar) tests with proper adjustments will save you some strange experiences. Keep notes! All of your recipes should recommend the use of pectic enzyme. This enzyme breaks down pectin, which in fruit wines can cause a haze, plus it aids in the release of juices during pressing.  Cover any mashed fruits with clear plastic while sitting on pectic enzyme to reduce browning from air exposure (oxidation).

Use quality fruit!  If your peaches have brown spots on them, your wine will taste oxidized from the start as the brown spots are oxidized!  If you are not using premium fruit, you will not make premium wines!

            We recommend the use of campden tablets (sodium bisulfite or potassium metabisulfite) for small batches or potassium metabisulfite (in a pure powder form) for 5 gallon plus batches. These additives are antioxidant and antibacterial agents. Oxidation in wine results in browning and off flavor. As an antibacterial agent it prevents vinegar.   Follow recommended rates and do not double dose.  The powder “meta” is used at the rate of ¼ teaspoon per 5 gallons of white and 1/8 teaspoon per 5 gallons of red.  Meta has bleaching properties, so we use the lesser rate for reds.  It is added at every racking (4 times or so) and can be used as a rinse for bottles at bottling.  You can test the sulfur level with Titrets, if you don’t like to just add it at times of exposure to the elements.  Rates should be 40 PPM for reds and 80 PPM for whites. 

Yeast nutrient is necessary to balance the fruit nutrients for the use of wine yeast. For fruit wines we encourage the use of Enovit, which is a yeast nutrient with added vitamins, etc.  Nutrient addition is recommended for grapes, also.  We use DAP or diammonium phosphate, which is recommended for grapes rather than other fruits.  Follow label instructions.  Nutrients are like fertilizer and you could overdose and have a hot environment for the yeast. 

Now that your sugar and acids are set and yeast has been selected, we will get to the basic winemaking process.

1.   Our juices are sulfited; no additional sulfite should be added prior to fermenting.  OK, so what are sulfites?  Sulfites are an antibacterial and an anti-oxidant agent added to wine in the form of Potassium Metabisulfite at the rate of ¼ teaspoon per 5 gallons of white and 1/8 teaspoon per 5 gallons of red.  We call it “meta” for short.  Read your commercial wine labels, “this wine contains sulfites”.  We sell Potassium Metabisulfite in a powder form in order to avoid sodium in Sodium Metabisulfite.  However, campden tablets, which are a tablet form of meta may be sodium metabisulfite.

2. To ferment take the level of the juice down to the shoulder of the carboy, which is usually a 5 gallon glass jug, and equip it with an airlock ½ filled with water.  The balance of the juice may ferment in a glass gallon jug with an airlock.  In order to make 5 gallons of wine, you need to start out with 5 ½ -6 gallons of juice.  Our juices are refrigerated. Warm to room temperature.

3. Rehydrate the yeast with water according to packet instructions (no longer than 15 minutes as there are no nutrients present).  You may use Go-Ferm during this rehydration process.  Go-Ferm contains micronutrients, which help restore the dehydrated yeast to a healthy, more normal cell ready to go!  Look below for more yeast nutrient information. 

4. Add yeast to the room temperature juice to avoid "cold shock".

5. Ferment 1 to 2 weeks or until a definite line of sediment (lees) is evident. Transfer the juice off the top of the lees via siphon to a clean container, add proper metabisulfite, and top up with the reserved juice or wine to within 1 inch of the stopper. This is called racking.

6. Ferment 1 to 2 months more. Rack when bubbling has ceased or has become very slow and a definite line of sediment (lees) shows. Top up the new vessel with wine to within 1 inch of the stopper.  “Topping up” is an important issue to avoid oxidation.  Do NOT top up with water as it will upset the acid structure of the wine and may result in spoilage (vinegar).  Top up with wine (from your cellar).

NOTE:  Check your water level in the airlock frequently.  Airlocks can go dry.  Some winemakers use colored water to help visibility.  Some use a meta-solution for airlocks.

7. Rack, sulfite, and fine as necessary. (For fining, see page 14 of our catalog.)

8. Wines should fall bright, meaning they should be brilliant.  Now, you can cold stabilize. Cold stabilizing occurs when the wine is subjected to temperatures of 25-30oF for 2 weeks or more.  Put glycerin or sufficient alcohol (vodka) in the airlock to prevent freezing. If you wish to ADD SORBATE, do so now at the rate of 1-2 grams per gallon (1/2 teaspoon is approximately 1 gram). You must have proper Meta levels when using sorbate. Run a free SO2 test and adjust the Meta at the same time you do the sorbate.  Place the carboy at 25-30o F for 2 weeks or more. Excess tartrates will precipitate from the wine. This mellows the wine by reducing the acid. It will help stabilize the wine by preventing these tartrates from settling out after bottling. Rack into a clean carboy.  If you add SORBATE without cold stabilizing, allow 24 hours before bottling. However, the addition of any potassium ion will make the wine unstable and this is why cold stabilizing is recommended after adding sorbate.

9. Filter if desired and bottle when stable. Always rinse bottles with a C-Brite or a Meta solution. Drain well. The drainer trees are very nice for this purpose.  By the way, C-Brite is a chlorine base cleaner and if the bottles not allowed to air dry totally before using, then they should be rinsed before use. 

Mitchell's short cut yeast starter: Sprinkle the yeast onto warm (40-45oC or 104-115oF) distilled or sterile non-chlorinated water.  Leave for 5-15 minutes (NOT LONGER) and add an equal volume of sterile grape juice.  Shake to aerate.  Oxygen is required for the yeast to start.  It will take up to two days to become active.  Make up however much you want.  (A 5-gram pack of yeast is rated for 5-7 gallons).  Making a starter of a total volume of 1/2 of a gallon will inoculate a lot more than 5-7 gallons.  

Starter recipe in Frishman Enjoy Home Winemaking:  2 cups water, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon nutrient, 1/4 teaspoon citric acid, yeast. NOTE: In any recipe recommending ¼ or ½ teaspoon of yeast nutrient in a small volume of water (4 oz to 2 cups) REDUCE the nutrient to a pinch – else it will be too hot. The dose for nutrient is 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of juice.  Put it in the juice--and yet a starter will require some nutrient so use a pinch or the other starter method.  REHYDRATE the yeast first for 5-15 minutes in the water before adding to the other ingredients.

 GoFerm:  GoFerm is a micronutrient for the yeast and is used during the re-hydration stage.  It is not a nutrient for the juice.  Directions for rehydration with Go-Ferm:  Add GoFerm to 2 ounces of warm NOT HOT distilled water (430C or 1100F) at the rate of 6.25 grams (or 2 teaspoons) per pack of yeast.   Mix well and allow to cool to 104 degrees F (40degrees C).  THEN sprinkle the yeast on top of the water-GoFerm mixture.  Let stand for 10-15 minutes without stirring, and then stir well to suspend all the yeast.  Let stand for another 15-30 minutes.  Stir gently again.  Combine an equal amount of must or juice to be fermented.  This will help the yeast to adjust to the cool temperature must.  This temperate adjustment may need repeating for very low temperature must.  Add immediately to must or juice that is room temperature. 

 

Welcome to the world of winemaking!  Our winemakers are making some excellent award winning wines.  We provide quality grapes, locally grown, and juices plus a full line of winemaking (and some brewing) supplies, plus technical information.  Shop securely online or in-store.  Thank you for stopping by!  We hope you will enjoy your visit.  Tom and Marcy Mitchell and staff